Nico Manesis writes about white Argatia 2008
Nico Manesis writes about white Argatia 2008 www.greekwineworld.com
Assyrtiko originates in Santorini. It is now grown, with great success, on other Aegean islands, such as Paros, more recently on Tinos. It is different on the mainland, gentler, of less in your face mineral intensity. Measurable acreage is to be found also in Eastern, Central and now Western Macedonia, where Argatia, the recently established vineyards and winery, is located.
Haroula Spinthiropoulou wears many hats. Ampelographer and researcher. Active in viticultural consulting services and author. In establishing with her husband, Panayiotis Georgiadis, this new, tiny but ambitious venture, she now says, “I must now learn how to make wine.” Her sounding board for technical matters is Vassilis Marinos, Head of the successful Thessaloniki based Ampelooeniki Laboratory and Consulting Services.
Her choice of white grapes speaks volumes. Assyrtiko, the fashionable at the moment Malagousia and the under-appreciated Athiri. Some of you may be bored (count me in on this) with just another Assyrtiko and Co blend. Yet, this wine is so different. It goes beyond the all Greek experience. There is a statement here. A fact foreign judges at the recently held 9th Thessaloniki International Wine Competition (see www.wineroads.gr) were quick to pick up on. Over lunch it was one of their favourites. Sales excluding, could a wine producer wish for a higher endorsement?
Intense nose of green tea and summer herbs. Fat, alternating with sappy flavours. Weight and structure. Mouth filling tasty extract. Rich, leesy, lively aftertaste with a botanical hint of thyme. Though still tight, there is much going on here. A novelty for the region. With its attractive (Assyrtiko derived) phenolic bite very much a food wine. Luke-warm fava purée, drenched in olive oil, adorned with crisp caper leaves. Slowly cooked spit roasted lamb. Mmm...
Score: 17/20